Tuesday 18 September 2012

Costa del Sol


We are almost at the end of our trip along the Costa del Sol; we left Gibraltar on the 3rd September the skies were clear blue and very little cloud; however it was a bit windy with gusts up to approximately 25 knots. As soon as we were out of the marina and in Gibraltar bay we put the sails up, keeping a reef in the sails, the wind seemed to be coming in all directions and at one point we were on a starboard tack and another sail yacht sailing parallel to us was on a port tack. As we rounded Europa point wouldn’t you know it the wind was now on the nose which meant tacking most of the way to our destination, not only that we had an westerly current when it’s usually a easterly one, this meant we were actually going backwards, so down came the sails and on went the motor.
Europa Point Gibraltar

Another challenge was the number of tankers at anchor that we needed to navigate around and keep a watchful eye on in case any off them decided to make way, there must have been over thirty.

Coupled with that we had to take action to avoid the numerous drift nets that had been set along our course, especially as they were difficult to see, the only clue was that there was usually a fishing boat at the start of the net, but this was not always the case. Each time we had to alter course we had to go quite a way to get around them, the whole journey from Gibraltar to Puerto de la Duqueasa which is just under twenty miles took six hours and forty minutes, we usually travel that distance in about three and a half to four hours, so it could be said that the whole trip was both challenging and frustrating.

The pilot book, which provides information on the various marinas in to aid us in making our decision on which marinas to go to did not give Puerto de la Duqueasa a very good write up but we thought the place was lovely.

The following day we were going to head off to Marina de Bajadilla, which is just east of Marbella, but when we arrived Marbella seems to merge both marinas so we decided to give it a miss and head of to the next marina along the coast which was Puerto Cabo Pino. The guide book stated the entrance was shallow but that a boat with a draft of two metres should make it through the entrance okay. When we radioed ahead to check we were informed that the entrance was only one point five meter and so it was on to the next marina at Puerto de Fuengirola. The marina looked as if it was in need of a lot of love and attention, there was no assistance provided with mooring and so this was our first attempt at mooring stern to on our own and I have to say we did a pretty good job, however we were packed very tightly between two other boats.

We decided to stay here for two nights as we had time to spare, and so I got to go shopping, have to say Kevin was very patient, while I browsed around usually he walks off. After a while I got to purchase two dresses which met with Kevin’s approval, so all in all a good days outing. Shopping done it was back to the boat and chores; I did the washing and cleaning whilst Kevin mended the Head (toilet) pipe and fitted non slip surface our plank so that it was no longer slippy.
High Tech boarding plank!
Our next stop was  Puerto Caleta de Valez, when we arrived the reception pontoon was festooned with seagulls and the whole pontoon was covered in guano. Whilst waiting to be allocated a birth the most dreadful noise of birds of prey could be heard all around the marina, apparently it’s supposed to frighten the seagulls away but it didn’t have much effect because all they did was look up at the loud speakers and took no notice.

Although the marina staff were lovely we decided to only stay one night in this very run down marina, the following day we got up fairly early had breakfast and then started to prepare the boat for casting of. When I popped my head outside the cockpit wouldn’t you know it the whole of the starboard side was covered in seagull poo and so Kevin had to give the boat a good wash before we could set sail.

Our next port of call was Marina del Este, a privately run marina which was absolutely beautiful, our mooring although tight between two other boats was right in front of two Restaurants.
Steps from the boat to the restaurants

At night the marina was lit up and it had a very romantic feel to it. Whilst there we met another couple making their way to the Med, Dave and Julie, they left England only a few days after us but apparently had awful weather for most of the way down France and across North Spain, so I think we obviously chose the right time to leave. Surprisingly when they arrived in La Rochelle they moored next to Joe and Yvonne, the Irish couple we met in La Rochelle.

We stayed in Marina del Este for three nights and spent one of the nights with Dave and Julie, the evening started at 19:00.  Dave and Julie weren’t able to gain access to their boat as they had been using the chap’s next doors dingy to get on their boat, and he had taken his boat out for the day, and so Kevin invited them on board for a drink. By 2200 we still hadn’t eaten so it was off the boat to one of the restaurants for a Pizza. At one point one of the waiters came to inform us that the restaurant was closing but we could stay at the table as long as we wanted, it was one o’clock before we went to bed, one of the latest nights we have had.

After Marina del Este we set of for Almerimar, where we had arranged for Kevin’s daughter Rachel and family to join us. The pilot book gives the place a good write up, and we were contemplating staying here for winter. However when we arrived the whole marina felt dead, most shops  were shut or empty and there didn’t seem to be much of a live-a-board community as described in the pilot book. When we looked at the beaches they didn’t look very nice and we felt were unsuitable for very small children, so we decided to stay for just three nights and move on to the next marina at Puerto Aguadulce to see if that was any better.

Dave and Julie had also headed down to Almirimar and on the night before we left we were invited on to their boat for drinks, this time it was a more respectable 23:30 when we left for bed.

We are now in Puerto Aguadulce, which we feel is better suited for two small children, yesterday we took the local bus into Almeria so that we could suss out the best way of getting Rachel Mike and the kids back to the marina.

When we arrived at the bus station in Almeria we asked at the information counter where we would need to catch the bus for the airport, we were informed we needed to catch a number 20 bus in Central Square and was pointed in the direction we needed to go. Well we couldn’t find where to catch the bus so decided to locate the tourist information office, that in itself was a feat and a half, the sign posts were sending us in all directions so in the end we asked at a hotel. It was a good job we did or we would never have found it, it took us nearly an hour to locate the tourist information office where they provided us with a map and indicated where we would be able to catch the bus to the airport. When we found the bus stop it was only a few hundred yards from the bus station so we had clearly been sent in totally the wrong direction.

After locating the bus stop we headed off for lunch and ended up at an American restaurant that served huge burgers, we settled for the medium sized one but even that was filling. After lunch Kevin agreed to look round the shops, I thought this was very amenable off him until I realised they were nearly all shut. So it was back to the marina where we spent the remainder of the day on the beach.

Today has been spent getting the boat ready for Rachel’s arrival tomorrow, it will be the first time on this trip that we have had more than one person staying with us for a week. This has meant both of us condensing our wardrobe down even further and looking for further places to stow various items.

This evening we plan to spend quietly on the boat in anticipation of early mornings, excited children and potential chaos, but were looking forward to it.
 
Distance travelled to date: 2129 nautical miles

Sunday 2 September 2012

Gateway to the Med


We have now reached Gibraltar the gateway to the Mediterranean, since arriving we have seen more clouds in the past three days than we did the whole time we were in the Algarve, but I suppose the weather had to change at some time, though it is still quite warm.

Our last few days in Vialmoura with Madeline, Steve Sophie and Harry was packed full of fun, Steve treated the Kids (Kevin included) to a go on a Jet Ski, as usual Kevin got the duff one and therefore was unable to give it some real welly, as they came back in they all appeared to be smiling and all thought it was great fun, although Sophie said she had a few dubious moments.
Sophie and her old uncle
Another day we sailed round to the beach we had gone to on our first day together, we started off by having a dingy race, boys versus girls, the person rowing was blindfolded ( goggle's had tissue paper in) and had to be guided by the other member of their team. The boy’s team was Harry rowing with Steve giving instruction, the girls team was Sophie rowing with Madeline giving instructions, the girls won by two minutes.
The boy's team - Stephen & Harry

The girl's team - Madeline & Sophie

It was then off to the beach, Steve, Sophie and Harry swam to shore, whilst Kevin rowed to shore with Madeline and myself, I sat at the front and Madeline was at the back with strict instructions to keep the bags dry. As we approached the shore the waves started to get bigger, Steve started to wade out to help us in. As I looked back at Madeline, I saw this huge wave about to break right behind us, the next minute we were hurtling towards shore completely drenched, but Madeline managed to keep the bags dry.

That night Steve treated us all to dinner as it was Madeline’s birthday on the day they flew back.

Our final day with them all was spent lazing around the Pool at Steve and Madeline’s hotel, it made a nice change from swimming in the sea, and at one point we nearly cleared the pool as our game of ball became a bit boisterous.  At night we said our goodbyes and a few tears shed all round, both Kevin and I so enjoyed our time with them all, and have certainly missed their crewing skills.

The following day we headed off to the Spanish Boarder and Ayamonte, which is a village of Greek origin, the Marina was lovely and quiet, a big change from Vilamoura, and the small town with its cobbled narrow streets was bustling, we really liked the place. On our way into Ayamonte we were stopped by the Portuguese police, the first time this had happened to us as we had been informed it was a usual occurrence when sailing around Portugal, all they wanted to see were ships papers and passports. We had intended to sail up the river but we couldn’t find any charts indicating the depths and as we were aware the river contained some sandbanks that we could get stuck on we decided not to take the risk.

We then moved on to Chipiona, the pilot book said it was a well-run marina, backed by a pleasant holiday town, both of us would beg to differ and were quite happy to move on to our next destination in Cadiz.

Cadiz is an ancient city and has links with the Phoenicians, Romans and the Moors, it has long been a major port and until recently yachts could not be accommodated but this has all changed now. The marina is set amongst the giant docks and isn’t particularly nice, the walk from the marina into the old town is desolate and uninspiring.  The city itself is vast and could not be covered in a single day, so we took a walk along the sea front into the town where we saw some really beautiful and unusual old trees.

The Cities Cathedral looks very Moorish and very big, unfortunately we decided not to go and have a look, on hindsight I now wished we had.

From Cadiz it was on to Barbate, we only stayed here one night before heading of for Gibraltar nick named “The Rock”, at one point on the voyage to “The Rock” we thought we could see some islands off to our starboard side, but it was actually North Africa we could see, at one point we were only eight miles away from the African coast.

The mooring in the marina is stern too with what’s called a lazy line at the bow, this was the first time we had attempted this type of mooring in our boat which we managed without difficulty, (we did have some assistance from one of the marina staff). Our mooring in Gibraltar is right next to the runway so we get to see all the planes land and take off at close range, one of which included a Hercules. Apparently the Easyjet is not allowed to moor though.

Whilst in Gibraltar we have done the touristy trip and walked to the top of the rock, although it was cloudy it was very hot and humid. First we visited St Michaels cave, which was full of stalagmites and stalactite’s it was truly magnificent, and apparently they now hold concerts in the largest of the caverns.

It was then off to see the Barbary monkeys, which varied in sizes, there were quite a few mothers walking around with their babies clinging on. There are numerous notices telling you not to touch or feed them, but we saw lots of people ignoring this request, and we had no intention of sharing our chocolate bar with them.
Caption competition - who can send us the funniest
It was then off to look at the Siege Tunnel, the history behind the making of the tunnel was fascinating, and apparently is not the only tunnel. During world war two the tunnels were extended and now 52Km of tunnels exist inside the rock. With this much tunnelling it’s a wonder “The Rock” is still standing.


Tomorrow we head off around Europa Point into the Mediterranean, so in preparation we took a trip to Morrison’s, where we have stocked up on several of the items we can’t get anywhere in Spain, and Kevin has treated himself to a few cans of one his favourite bitters whilst for me it was a big bar of Cadbury’s chocolate.
 

Total distance to date: 1945 Nm (2238m)